Spantik 7027 metres, Pakistan Himalaya A guided ascent of this superb, but technically easy, 7000 metre peak.
HOME TENT PEAK GREATER RANGES COURSE EMAIL CONTACT This page is still under construction, sorry for any inconvenience.	Spantik Peak is known by various names, all depicting different aspects of its beauty and grandeur. The northwestern face on the Nagar side with its bright red color of golden pillar is called "Ghenish Chhish", which in Brushaski (local language) means Golden Mountain. Ghinesh in Broshaski also means Queen. The peak is so majestic and beautiful that the local people call it Queen Mountain. Conway named it as Golden Parri, which means Golden Fairy and some call it Pyramid Mountain too. The peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif near Barpu and Garumbar glaciers. The first attempt to climb the peak was made in 1903 via the Southeast ridge by Dr. and Mrs. Workman. They ascended up to within 330 meters of the summit. The same route was used by five German climbers headed by Kramer when they made the first ascent in 1955. Some teams have used snowshoes to cross the flat and huge plateau higher up. British climbers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climbed the Northwest golden pillar of Spantik in 1987. Most recently Spantik 7027 has been a favorite of climbers for training themselves for higher objectives. Lying to the south of the great Hispar glacier and standing above upper Chogolungma, Spantik offers an attractive climb. The approach path to the beautiful campsites along the Chogolungma Glacier offers vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks. The climb along the Southeast ridge is easily achievable amongst 7000m summits in the Karakorum. The ridge rises 2700m over its 8-km length affording the several safe campsites. It is a straight ascent with a gradient of 30º to 45º with a mixture of some tough and easy patches. The Southwest route also goes along a snow ridge of moderate angularity. The summit on clear days presents grand views of neighboring Rakaposhi, Diran, Malubiting, Ultars, Battura Group, Haramosh, the entire Shimshal Mountains, and K2 far beyond and many more. The view is absolutely breathtaking. Although technically easy, Spantik is for mountaineers who have the experience of climbing as roped parties on snow and glaciers and at least have been on some smaller peaks. Excellent physical condition as well as regular practice are required to be on this expedition. Our group will be made up of people who have either been on previous trips to the Greater Ranges with us, or those who have proven experience on snow covered terrain at altitude. If you are not sure that your previous experience is of relevance, contact us and we will be happy to offer advice. The trip will be led by Pete Hill, who has climbed extensively the world over. We meet in Islamabad and, after a day sorting equipment, travel to the village of Skardu. This will be by plane, unless weather conditions dictate that we have to travel by road. After a free day here, we start on the spectacular approach to base camp at just over 4,100 metres. When reached, we set up camp amid stunning scenery, and prepare ourselves for the next two weeks. These 14 days give us a lot of time to acclimatize and prepare camps on our route, in preperation for the summit atempt. We will be climbing the South-East ridge for nearly nine kilometres, a long way but never technically demanding. Our time on the ridge will be spent building up stocks of gear at various camps, three in all above base camp. This load carrying does two things. Firstly, it lets us get all our equipment to the right place for the forthcoming summit bid. Secondly, it allows us a very important time of acclimatization training, essential for anyone wishing to make the top. Summit day will start early, somewhere between midnight and two o'clock. The ground is not steep, and the ascent will take around eight hours. However, moving at altitude is always hard work, and we certainly won't be rushing things. the views from the top, and indeed from much of the way up, are superb. K2 and the Baltoro region is in the distance, and Nanga Parbat is instantly recognizable. Many other peaks are nearby, and some time will be spent taking photographs and congratulating each other, before the long descent starts. Back at base camp there will be a party for all members, and then the trek back to Skardu and thence Inslamabad commences.
	ITINERARY Please note that this is an outline itinerary, and although we will do everything to try to keep to the schedule, we cannot take responsibility for changes beyond our control. Day 01 Islamabad Arrive Islamabad. Pick up from the airport and transfer to hotel. Same day welcome reception (briefing) at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Overnight at hotel. Day 02 Skardu/Chilas a) Fly to Skardu. Upon arrival transfer to hotel for overnight. Sightseeing around Skardu. The 42 minutes flight to Skardu is a very thrilling and unique experience of flying between the towering icy peaks of the mighty Himalayan and rugged Karakorum ranges with extra-ordinary and unforgettable aerial views of clusters of mountains, and Glaciers. While flying don't miss to see the most spectacular views of Nanga Parbat (8124m) and K2 (8611m) from the cockpit. These two mountains tower over all the others. b) In case of cancellation of flight (10 - 12 hrs) drive by coach to Chilas (480km) on Karakorum Highway. Overnight at hotel. Driving on the KKH is no less exciting. The KKH is one of the most spectacular roads and the world's highest metalled border crossing. It connects Pakistan and China stretching over a distance of 1300 km between Islamabad and Kashgar winding through three mountain ranges and following the ancient Silk route along the Indus valley to the Chinese border at Khunjerab pass. Day 03 Chilas/Skardu a) Day free at Skardu. b) If you are driving, complete road journey (07 - 08 hrs) to Skardu (275 km). Enroute stop on a viewpoint near Thalichi to take a view of Nanga Parbat. From this face it was climbed on 3rd July 1953 by Austrian climber Hermann Bhul. It is a nice spot to take picture in combination with Indus and the Nanga Parbat in the background. We cross the Alam Bridge over Gilgit River to continue our journey towards Skardu and drive on Skardu Road along the Right Bank of the Indus River. En-route we will have close views of Nanga Parbat, confluence of the Indus and Gilgit Rivers, junctions of the three mightiest ranges of Himalya, Karakoram and Hindu Kush as well as the rapids and falls of Indus River. The town of Skardu (2234m) is situated along the south side of the Indus River. It is a broad Valley about 40km long and 10km wide. Skardu is now the administrative center of the District and also transportation and commercial hub of Baltistan region. Day 04 Skardu to Arandu It is a long day journey so start early. The road to Shigar Valley bridges the Indus from Thorego some (10km) east of Skardu. The road then runs through the sand dunes before climbing over a shoulder of mountain from where a superb view of the entire Shigar Valley can be seen upto the junction of Braldu and Basha Rivers. The road then descends to the Shigar village (32km). From Shigar the jeep trek goes up the West Bank of the river. Enroute at Chu Tron we can see hot sulpher springs with separate bathing huts for men and women. The jeep track goes up the valley to the beautiful village of Doko (20km) from where we trek to Arandu the last village at the snout of the awesome (38km) Chogo Lungma Glacier. The trail starts through walnut groves and then goes up and down the hillside with beautiful view of cultivated fields and villages on the other side of the river. It is an easy walk upto Sesko beyond which it becomes stony and slippery due to landslides. After Bulcho the valley opens up and after trekking about (5hrs) from Doko we reach Arandu. Overnight at camp above the village at about 2950 meters. Day 05 From Arandu to Chogo Brangsa It takes about (9/10 hrs) to reach Chongo Brangsa, The trail follows the Basha River upto the snout of the Chogo Lungma Glacier. After crossing the glacier follow the northern lateral moraine to Chongo Brangsa. Overnight at camp. Day 06 Chogo Brangsa to Bolucho Passing through the summer settlement of Gharincho and a small lake and enjoying the superb views of Spantik and Laila Peaks we reach Bolucho, which is situated at the base of the Bolucho Glacier. Overnight at camp at about (3,900 meters) on a green ground with water. Day 07 - 20 From Bolucho to Base Camp (for acclimatization and climbing 14 days) We will establish three high altitude camps to climb Spantik. Going and returning between these camps will help acclimatize the team, which is key to success. Certain parts of the route between different camps will be equipped with fixed cords for safety and going and coming without any problems. We will climb about (8km) up to the origin of Chogo Lungma Glacier to set up camp I at 4550 meters. Camp 2 and camp 3 are installed at mini summits of southeastern ridge with a view of 360º. The route from Camp I upto (5100m) altitude consists of many ice pitches with many crevasses requiring 8 ropes fix line. Beyond this point upto camp 2 no rope is required. The climbing from camp 2 at (5500m) to Camp 3 at (6550m) comprises ice with some dangerous steep crevasses requiring 6 ropes to fix on this section. From Camp 3 to summit two ropes will be sufficient as safety rope. Day 21 Return to Khurumal. Overnight at camp. Day 22 Return to Arandu. Overnight at camp. Day 23 Return to Skardu. Drive by jeep to Skardu. Overnight at hotel. Day 24 Islamabad / Chilas a) Fly to Islamabad (Subject to weather conditions). b) In case of flight cancellation drive to Chilas. Overnight at hotel. Day 25 Islamabad a) Farewell meeting (de-briefing) at Alpine Club of Pakistan. b) In case of driving, complete road journey from Chilas to Islamabad. Overnight at hotel. Day 26 Fly Out Transfer to airport for your return flight home.
	COST 2008. The date to meet in Islamabad for 2008 is 12th July, dep[arting for Skardu the day after. The cost for the trip is £2850 Islamabad return, making it considerably more affordable than other companies. SERVICES INCLUDED: Ø Assistance upon arrival/departure. Ø Welcome reception (briefing)/farewell meeting (de-briefing) at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Ø Hotel accommodation at Chancery Guest House (Islamabad), Concordia Motel (Skardu) and Panorama Hotel (Chilas) with all meals. Ø Transport from islamabad to Skardu and back (either flight or via road if no flights possible). Ø All meals during trek and 14 days at B.C. Ø Porterage of 30 kg per person of expedition equipment and high altitude food etc. to and back from the B.C. Ø Road transfers between airport/hotel and within the city as per itinerary. Ø Sleeping tent, mattress, mess/kitchen with table/field stools and camping ground fees. Ø Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel and related community gear. Ø Porterage at airports, hotels, toll taxes and parking fee etc. Ø Mail handling/forwarding to BC/overseas. Ø Reconfirmation of air tickets. SERVICES NOT INCLUDED: Ø Airport tax, excess baggage charges. Ø Passport and visa fees. Ø International flights. Ø Medications ground evacuations and helicopter rescue charges of any kind. Ø Room services, laundry, beverages, phone/communication bills and items of a personal nature. Ø Personal insurance. Ø Tips.
	If you wish to make further enquiries or to book the trip, please notify Pete by email in the first instance. We will then contact you and make an appropriate response.